kittnut
Headmaster
"Black car? red light? oh come on, you know...."
Posts: 496
|
Post by kittnut on Oct 4, 2006 13:36:40 GMT
So I decided to restore my G2 prime (like G1) to its original glory. It was my first prime toy so it has sentimental value. Anyway its not in bad condition needing a quick lick of paint and some right shoulder parts. Coincedently if anyone has a junked G1/G2 prime give me an e-mail, I need parts. So I've managed to take apart most of the peices so that I can repaint the chrome but have hit a snag. How in blazes do you take the wheels off the front section of the cab. This would mean I can get the thighs off for painting. Theres a couple of screws on the front cab section but it seems to be the wheel axle is still holding the thing in place. Any ideas.
Sarfraz
|
|
Trek
Powermaster
Posts: 757
|
Post by Trek on Oct 4, 2006 17:17:09 GMT
While I don't know how to remove the wheels (I've never taken a prime apart that much) I would caution you about restoring a G2 Prime using G1 parts. I recently restored a Grey Roller version of G1 Prime and discovered during my research that there are many small and subtle differances between all the variations of the Prime mold (G1 Grey, G1 Light Blue, G1 Dark Blue, G2, Reissue). This means that if you want to keep your prime authentic you need to get replacement parts off G2 junker.
|
|
|
Post by Galvy on Oct 4, 2006 21:06:31 GMT
to remove the wheels you gotta remove every screw you can see thats in side the cab and the two on the primes left side, youll see as you go, good luck
|
|
kittnut
Headmaster
"Black car? red light? oh come on, you know...."
Posts: 496
|
Post by kittnut on Oct 5, 2006 5:02:57 GMT
Thanks for the advise Trek. I know theres some differences but I hope not that many in the gearing area of the shoulder joint. Have to wait and see. I should atleast be able to do a better retro fit job.
I have taken every screw out that I can find on the prime (even those ones Galvy). All I have is the bottom section of the cab, the two chrome bits of the legs and the wheels left. It looks like the wheel hubs are still hold the thing together as the cab section can now be seperated in two.....but as they are mounted to the axle I can't get it apart.
Sarfraz
|
|
Trek
Powermaster
Posts: 757
|
Post by Trek on Oct 5, 2006 8:27:24 GMT
Looking at one of my partly disasembled Primes, I agree. There's no way to remove the thights without pulling the wheels off (and I can't pull them off with out damaging them).
As for the differances between the molds I haven't seen anything abouth the shoulder joint (unless there's a discrepency in the reds). Most of the differeances are in the smokestacks, front grill, trailer underside, trailer sides and trailer door.
|
|
kittnut
Headmaster
"Black car? red light? oh come on, you know...."
Posts: 496
|
Post by kittnut on Oct 5, 2006 9:55:59 GMT
Well my G2 trailer is perfect so thats not a problem. The stacks and front grill just need slight touch up so their fine. I'm still trying to figure out where to get these shoulder parts. I've seen pics of G2 and G1 prime side-by-side and they look to be the same red. Even if the items are slightly worn thats more than what I would have now! I did a botch-job years ago with superglue so I damaged the front panel of the right shoulder in the process aswell.
The wheel thing has me really confused. It looks like the wheel hubs are attached to the axle with an end cap holding the whole thing in place. There seems to be some play in the axle and end caps, which suggest it them and not the wheels holding everything together.
Sarfraz
|
|
|
Post by Galvy on Oct 8, 2006 18:26:00 GMT
dont tell my son i did this, to remove the legs you gotta drive the bar from between the wheels. this will result in some springs going awol but will seperate the legs from the cab. as tested on a g1 ultra magnus, without sons knowledge
|
|
Trek
Powermaster
Posts: 757
|
Post by Trek on Oct 9, 2006 10:40:48 GMT
Wow. i tried that on a complete junker and got nowhere. The end caps on that bar feel like they're welded on.
|
|
kittnut
Headmaster
"Black car? red light? oh come on, you know...."
Posts: 496
|
Post by kittnut on Oct 9, 2006 11:27:02 GMT
Wow. i tried that on a complete junker and got nowhere. The end caps on that bar feel like they're welded on. Tell me about it. E-mailed someone from a kitbash board and he said it does come off if you use a soldering iron on the end, which melts the glue holding the two pins. Yeah right, damn thing is not shifting!!! Trek, is the right shoulder working on the junker of yours? just asking as I need parts like those? Sarfraz
|
|
Trek
Powermaster
Posts: 757
|
Post by Trek on Oct 9, 2006 14:42:35 GMT
Thinking about it, yeah I do have a spare right shoulder and it looks ok, if a little loose (that's because this particular junker was my first every Optimus). The figure is already in bits too.
|
|
kittnut
Headmaster
"Black car? red light? oh come on, you know...."
Posts: 496
|
Post by kittnut on Oct 10, 2006 5:28:42 GMT
Trek sent you PM.
Sarfraz
|
|